Is Your Gel Manicure Safe? What the New UK Nail Rules Mean for You

Gel manicures have become a beauty staple for many people. They are glossy, long-lasting and usually far more resistant to chips than traditional nail polish. But recent changes to UK regulations have put one ingredient commonly found in some gel products under the spotlight.

The ingredient is trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide, better known as TPO. New restrictions mean products containing TPO are being phased out, prompting questions about why the ingredient has been restricted, whether existing gel manicures are safe and what customers should ask their nail technician.

The good news is that the change does not mean gel manicures are disappearing. There are already alternative formulations available, and professionals can continue to create durable, glossy finishes without relying on TPO.

Why has TPO become controversial?

TPO is a photoinitiator. In simple terms, it helps gel polish harden when exposed to the light from a UV or LED nail lamp. The chemical reacts during the curing process, helping transform liquid gel into the solid coating that gives a manicure its familiar shine and durability.

The concern comes from research into the potential effects of high exposure to the substance. Animal studies have raised questions about reproductive health and development, while laboratory research has also examined possible effects on human cells.

TPO has subsequently been classified as a category 1B reproductive toxicant under relevant European and UK regulations. The classification is an important reason for the restrictions now being introduced.

However, this does not mean that having a gel manicure automatically exposes someone to dangerous levels of TPO. Some of the research involved exposure levels and conditions that are considerably different from those experienced during a typical salon appointment.

That distinction is important. Regulatory restrictions can be precautionary, particularly where there are concerns about reproductive toxicity.

What are the new UK rules?

The UK is now following the European Union in restricting TPO in cosmetic products.

From 15 August 2026, manufacturers cannot place new products containing TPO on the UK market. Existing stock can remain available for professional use for a limited period, with the rules requiring salons to stop purchasing affected products after 14 February 2027.

For customers, the practical effect should therefore be relatively small. Many professional products are already being reformulated without TPO, meaning you may already be receiving a TPO-free manicure without knowing it.

If you want reassurance, there is nothing wrong with asking your nail technician which products they use and whether their gel system is TPO-free.

Will TPO-free gel look different?

One of the biggest concerns for regular gel users is whether safer alternatives will produce the same result.

According to dermatologist Dr Derrick Phillips, alternative photoinitiators, including TPO-L, can be used to cure gel products under UV or LED lamps. Properly formulated products should still provide a glossy and durable finish.

This means customers should not necessarily expect thinner, duller or less long-lasting nails simply because a product no longer contains TPO.

The bigger issue is making sure the product is properly formulated and correctly cured. The quality of the application remains important, regardless of which photoinitiator is used.

UV lamps are another consideration

TPO is not the only aspect of gel manicures that has attracted health concerns.

UV and LED nail lamps are used to cure gel polish, and these devices can expose the hands to UVA radiation. Research has investigated whether repeated exposure could contribute to skin damage.

A 2023 study published in Nature Communications examined the effects of UV nail dryers on human and mouse cells. Researchers observed cell death and DNA changes following exposure in laboratory conditions.

It is important not to interpret those findings as proof that occasional salon manicures cause skin cancer. Laboratory cells are not the same as living human skin, and more research is needed to establish the long-term risk associated with nail lamps.

Nevertheless, repeated UV exposure is something regular gel users may reasonably want to minimise.

One simple precaution is to apply a broad-spectrum, high-factor sunscreen to the backs of the hands before an appointment. Another option is to use dark, opaque fingerless gloves designed to protect the skin while leaving the nails exposed.

What about HEMA and other acrylates?

There is another group of ingredients that deserves attention: acrylates.

Acrylates help gel products adhere to the nail and form a hard coating after curing. HEMA, or hydroxyethyl methacrylate, is one ingredient that has been associated with allergic contact dermatitis.

An allergy can cause symptoms including redness, itching, dryness, swelling and discomfort around the fingers. In some cases, reactions can also appear on other parts of the body, including the face and eyelids.

The main concern is uncured product coming into contact with the skin. This can happen when gel is applied incorrectly or when the product is not fully cured.

Once someone becomes sensitised to an acrylate, later exposure can potentially trigger another allergic reaction. That is particularly significant because similar chemicals can have applications beyond cosmetics, including certain dental and medical materials.

HEMA-containing products are restricted to professional use, which is another reason consumers should be cautious about purchasing inexpensive home gel kits from unknown sources.

Is it safer to visit a professional?

For people who enjoy gel manicures, avoiding DIY application can be a sensible precaution.

Professional nail technicians should understand how to apply the product without allowing uncured gel to sit on the surrounding skin. They should also use the appropriate lamp and curing time for the particular product.

A cheap kit is not necessarily unsafe, but problems can arise when a lamp is incompatible with the gel or does not provide adequate curing. Incomplete curing can leave reactive chemicals in the product and potentially increase the chance of skin exposure.

Before booking an appointment, customers can ask what gel system the salon uses, whether the products are TPO-free and whether the technician is properly trained.

Should you stop having gel manicures?

For most people, there is no need to panic.

The latest restrictions are focused on reducing exposure to a substance that has raised significant regulatory concerns, while alternatives are already available. Occasional gel manicures are generally considered unlikely to present a major health risk for most people.

The situation is different for someone who has frequent appointments, has experienced skin reactions or has developed an allergy to nail products. In those circumstances, discussing the issue with a qualified healthcare professional or dermatologist may be appropriate.

The simplest approach is to be an informed customer. Choose a reputable salon, ask about the ingredients being used, make sure gel is kept away from the surrounding skin and ensure the product is cured using the correct lamp.

Gel nails are not going away. The beauty industry is simply adapting to tighter safety standards. For customers, that means the familiar glossy finish can still be part of the routine, but with a little more attention to what is inside the bottle and how the manicure is applied.

Video

For a visual explanation of gel manicure safety, consumers can look for reputable dermatology or professional nail-care guidance covering TPO, acrylates, UV exposure and proper curing techniques.

Sources

• The Independent, published 21 August 2026.
• British Association of Dermatologists, guidance and information on artificial nail allergies and acrylate sensitisation.
• Nature Communications, 2023 research examining cellular effects associated with UV nail dryers.

Disclaimer

This article is for general information and educational purposes only. It is not medical advice and should not be used to diagnose, treat or prevent a health condition. Regulations and professional guidance can change, so readers should check current UK government and professional sources for the latest requirements. If you develop persistent pain, swelling, itching, blistering, skin changes or another reaction after a manicure, seek advice from an appropriately qualified healthcare professional.